Food: Where to head for a midnight snack in Goa

Paella studded with clams crabs and prawns industrialsize baking trays glowing ruby red with strawberry cake lemonade by the litre and a slowroasted sumacdusted chicken with a side of pickled slaw If yoursquore going to Goa you are probably going to end up at the Ingorsquos Saturday Night Market SNM Until recently the Saturday scene for most holidaymakers was set in stone PicsVijaya PaisSTEP 1 Butter garlic prawns for lunch on the beach STEP 2 Shopping at the SNM STEP 3 A rushed dinner to make the last order STEP 4 Dancing But over the past few years both locals and tourists have cut out STEP 3 and are now tucking into assorted vegetable pacircteacute or pkhali from the kitchen of Indiarsquos first Georgian restaurant vegan wraps packed with homemade tofu monster beef burritos the size of a forearm and som tam salad made with a traditional Thai mortar and pestle So what will you tryFOR PIZZA Go to IL FUNGO MAGICOSixty threeyearold Adriano Ticozzelli is quite possibly the most famous and still unheard of Italian in India You may not recognise his name but yoursquove definitely heard of his allveg Italian restaurant chain Little ItalyAdriano TicozzelliThese days the wood fire kinmaker and consulting chef lives in Goa I left Poona and my first Italian restaurant in Hotel Srimaan after Osho passed away Ticozzelli says He manages the Marketrsquos first corner food stall a pizzeria called Il Fungo Magico which he named after the ovensrsquo mushroom shape Here you can expect an almost Italian mamamade pie with a firm crust subtle tomato sauce and generous toppings Some of the crowd favourites include the classic Margherita Oilva black olives Greca green olives and a cheesefree Marinara finished with garlic olive oil and oregano Run by Adriano TicozzelliServing at the SNM since 12 seasonsStarting at Rs 270FOR GEORGIAN Go to GENACVALEIndiarsquos first Georgian restaurant opened for service in Vagator five years ago but it wasnrsquot until three years later that the owner Rati Kerkadze decided to serve a selection of seven authentic preparations to homesick Russians and Georgian crowds at the SNMTwo years later there are countless curious takers from around the globe who lineup to sample sulguni and machadi a smoked goat cheese with corn bread tolma dolma in Turkey and Armenia grape vine leaves stuffed with tomatoes eggplant peppers zucchini and even apples olivia veg their take on a Russian salad Khachapuri a traditional Georgian leavened bread which is stuffed with either just sulguni cheese round or egg and cheese canoeshaped and assorted pkhali a group of veggie pacirctes made with seasonal vegetables mdash ours being spinach beetroot red bean and eggplant Now if only we had a bottle of that elusive Georgian orange wine Run by Rati KerkadzeServing at the SNM since 2 seasons Starting at Rs 100 FOR ROTISSERIE CHICKEN Go to ROAST CHICKENOne of first stalls to set up shop at SNM Roast Chicken is run by a colourful character who goes by the name Marco But everyone calls me Chickenwalla he says The FrenchGerman chef decided to call Goa his home over a decade ago and for that wersquore thankful because he brought with him via Spain a medieval method of slowspit roasting a whole chicken what chefs now call the horizontal rotisserie Maybe yoursquove seen the milelong line for Simply the best roast chicken in GoaThey and we usually lineup to order the only thing on offer quarter half or whole mdash crispy on the outside but moist on the inside thanks to spitsrsquo constant rotation mdash chicken that Marco says packs in flavour influencers from Spain Germany and Jerusalem Fingerlicking good stuff this is MarcoRun by Marco the ChickenwallaServing at the SNM since 12 seasons Starting at Rs 250FOR TEXMEX Go to BURRITO BOYSThe two English chefs who man this stall with an army of sous chefs in shorts are known across England and Europe for feeding hungry music festival hoards consistently great TexMex fare for making mean burritos and churning out everything fresh and from scratch including their guacamole roasted Mexicanstyle chilli sauce mint sour cream green rice and chunky tomato salsaAlex Schaenbarg Itrsquos the sort of stall where the later in the night you order the longer the line will be Of their orange braised beef smoky chicken and caramelised aubergine burritos tacos and quesadillas we suggest you go with the six hour long slowcooked citrussoaked beef finished with a mountain of Monterey Jack cheese and jalapenos Only wherersquos the margarita Run by Alex Schaenbarg and Graham Vincante Serving at the SNM since 4 seasonsStarting at Rs 350 onwardsFOR VEGAN Go to BEAN ME UPIn the case of Goarsquos longest standing raw vegan organic and vegetarian brand the restaurant came 13 years before the weekly SNM standShawn RodriguesCurrent owner Shawn Rodrigues took over the bohochic eatery from a former American owner five years ago and since then the animal activistturnedvegan has beefed up the vegan offerings to also include housemade tofu and nonGMO brown rice Ask any vegetarian or vegan around and chances are they wonrsquot stop gushing over how good Rodriguesrsquo assorted salad plate is His latest venture The Maa Cafeacute in Morjim which is best described as raw and vegan Assorted salad plateRun by Shawn RodriguesServing at the SNM since 5 seasonsStarting at Rs 150FOR SOM TAM go to THAI FOOD 13 14 READY says a 20something Koko Yutthasunthon loudly after plating two chicken pad Thai noodles portions meant to be garnished and served immediately Dressed in a leopardprint halter and denim cutoff she quickly adds to her staff from over the stove You put peanut This exchange is followed by a 20second bout of incessant gigglingIf you take a whiff of the aromas near the last food stall before the upper terraced shopping area yoursquoll catch lemon grass birds eye chilli basil coconut milk and galangal So to think yoursquove been transported to a Bangkok street corner for the evening would be natural especially if you try any one of the four dishes this Thailadiesrsquo run stall servesKoko YutthasunthonThe choices are som tam salad prawn tom yum soup veg chicken and prawn pad Thai noodles and a red curry made with chicken and pumpkin Run by Koko YutthasunthonServing at the SNM since 5 seasons Starting at Rs 200FOR COFFEE amp CAKE go to COFFEE HEAVENWhile in AnjunaArpora if you say Coffee or cake wersquoll say Coffee Heaven This decadeold brand is run by a German couple from Hamburg who also run a restaurant by the same name a little up the road from the Market This season the eatery will remain closed except for serving their Sunday BrunchDiana Menz Their gorgeous lemon cheesecake apple crumble carrotandnut cake Linzer tart Belgium waffles homemade fruit yoghurt and strawberry cake have been served to happy marketers for five seasons Also on offer are homemade cold drinks like lemonade lemonginger and cold coffee besides for coffees and hot chocolate black green and herbal teasThe perfect order A cappuccino with two Californian brownies to go Run by Diana and Dirk MenzServing at the SNM since 5 seasons Starting at Rs 100 FOR DESSERTS go to PETIT PARISIrsquom the sort of person who eats something sweet for breakfast lunch and dinner every day confesses Cassandra Braganza of Petit Paris stall and bakery And yet all her desserts mdash from the fresh strawberries and cream to French crepes stuffed with Nutella and blueberry tarts mdash are not cavityinducing sweetStrawberry and creamThis student of science and business discovered her flair for baking quite recently Braganzarsquos latest baby is a bakery by the same name down the road Just donrsquot blame us if you go there and ask for a blueberry tart and all you see is peach and passion fruit It seems the selftaught pastry chef keeps sending batches of freshly baked goods to the Market every hour on the hour from opening to closing So will it be the chocolate mousse or dark chocolate tart Blueberry tartsRun by Cassandra BraganzaServing at the SNM since 4 seasons Starting at Rs 100 FOR STUFFED BAGUETTES Go to 6 PACKrsquoSFor those of you who arenrsquot familiar with Anjunarsquos 6 Packrsquos all you need to know is theyrsquove been plating up all the foreigner favourites since 2002Veg BaguetteWhile the restaurantrsquos menu is brimming with all the British honey traps mdashfull English breakfast hot baguettes traditional pies steak and kidney steak and ale onion Shepherdrsquos chicken and mushroom minced mash and even fish and chips with mushy peas owner and chef Kishore Mandrekar only serves baguettes fat chips and few continental mains at the SNM We recommend you skip the big plates and ask for a warm beef or pulled pork baguette like most of the English Russians and French do Left and centreKishor Kishors sister Smita and their friend JackieRun by Kritika and Kishore Mandrekar Serving at the SNM since This season Starting at Rs 150 Seasonrsquos closingSaturday Night Market is slated to stay on till the last Saturday of April 2016